Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Lobster Stock and Risotto

When life hands you lobsters....

This past weekend (pre-diet) I went to the market in search of some halibut, fully intending to poach it in olive oil and serve with some kind of citrus creme or foam (was not decided yet) and perhaps a celery root puree. I also went in search of short ribs (very difficult to attain here...) to no avail.

They had halibut, but just before ordering I noticed a new addition to my normal seafood place. Could it be? Yes, a tank in the corner crawling with live lobsters. And better yet, for €17.83 per kilo (about $11 per pound). I could not resist, so I purchased two (equaling about a kilo, 2.2 pounds) and almost immediately got to work. This was met with a groan from my girlfriend (exclaiming something to the effect of 'I have to wait HOW long for dinner?').

What did I make? Lobster stock, and in turn wild mushroom and lobster risotto. Later I had some stock left over and made a lobster cream soup with sherry - it wasn't bad.

As much for my own documentation as anything, here was my method:

Lobster Stock

* 1kg (2.2 pounds) Live Lobsters (about 500g/1.1lb each)
* 4L (about 4 quarts) Water
* Mirepoix (I use about 120g/4oz consisting of 60g onion, 30g carrot and 30g celery - all diced)
* Mixed Mushrooms - about 100g (this was mostly because I was making this with my risostto in mind)
* Salt (to taste, but it will require a generous amount)

Note: I would normally also add wine to this, however in this case I wanted to add my wine to the risotto and later sherry to my soup thus I decided to not add it at this stage.

Proceedure:
Add cold water to a large pan, add in some salt (not too much - you can always add more at the end when you have reduced the stock enough, but once added it is not so easy to remove!), the mirepoix and mushrooms. Bring this just to a boil and add whole lobsters (you could remove the gills, but I don't normally find this necessary to my taste). Keep this at a fist simmer/low boil for about 12-15 minutes, until the lobsters are done. This will vary on the size of your lobster, but for a 500g/1.1lb lobster this should be about 15 minutes.

At this point remove the lobsters and either serve immediately, or is using the meat for something else (i.e. risotto) place the lobsters in ice water to stop the cooking process. Allow the stock to simmer for another 30 minutes, and then remove the vegetables and strain the stock.

I would suggest reducing this stock at simmer for another 1 hour, however you may taste it and decide on your desired strength. Once the stock is reduced to your liking adjust the salt to your taste.

The stock should be kept hot and used within a short period of time. If you will not use it right away it should be cooled rapidly (you can fill your sink with icewater and place the stock pan in the sink to cool it rapidly) and stored in the refrigerator. It can be kept for a few days under refrigeration or frozen for 3-6 months.

Lobster Risotto

200g (7oz) Arborio Rice
3-4 Shallots, diced
100g Mixed Mushrooms, sliced
50g (2 oz) Butter (plus more for finishing if desired)
Lobster Stock
150ml White Wine (I like Sancerre for this)
Truffle Oil (optional)
50g (2oz) Parmesan Cheese
Thyme
Choped Chives
Lobster Meat (from the 2 lobsters above is ideal)

Proceedure:
Over medium heat sautee the shallots and mushrooms in butter for 2-3 minutes, until they just begin to change color. Att the arborio rice and stir for 1-2 minutes, ensuring that there are no clumps of rice and that all the grains are evenly coated with butter. Add a soup ladle of the hot lobster stock (do not add cold stock) and stir until the liquid is mostly gone. Add about half of the wine (it is better to have it warm) and continue to stir until it is mostly gone. Add the remainder of the wine, continue to stir and when it is mostly gone add another soup ladle of stock. Continue to stir, adding additional stock when the liquid in the pan is mostly gone. After about 25 minutes you should begin to taste the risotto to determine if it is done. Risotto should be sightly firm, but not chalky in texture. You should adjust the salt (if needed) at this point. When you have nearly reached your desired doneness add in a pinch of fresh thyme leaves and the lobster. Stir through, remove from heat and stir through parmesan cheese and either truffle oil (if using) or about 50g (2oz) butter). Finish by string through chives, and serving.

You can reserve some of the lobster meat (I usually reserve half a tail and a claw per plate) for presentation on top.

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